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Sump Pump replacement
Changing a pump can be a very easy thing or a very difficult thing. Not only this, but if it is a sanitary pit it can be icky smell and gross.
Sewage is always best left to a grade system but in the event that it cannot, this is where the sumps come in. Draincom got a call from a gentleman that was looking to have some plumbing installed as well as having his storm sumps looked at.
We sent our expert to check this problem because it's not a very normal thing to be asked to install a pit. Here is the full story spoken by our professional:

I had a look as to what his needs were for the plumbing rough in and then went over to the sump pumps. Being that this property had a very high water table, the sump pumps ran almost 24/7 and was on a battery backup as well in case of power failure. There were 2 sump pumps in the pit, and one was dead and disconnected. It appeared that the motor simply was overworked and burned out. This certainly was going to be a very easy fix, and the rough in would be interesting at best. I called my supplier to have a new set of pumps sent up and took a motel room for the night to save myself 4 hours of driving. The next day I received my delivery and went to work. On all pumps that are in a pit, 3 things are required by code, a valve a check and a union. All of the required fitting were present and were very easily removed. I took the piping apart from the threaded connection on the old pump and connected it all back with the new pump. I connected to union, and plugged in the new pump. It was working perfectly. I in turn took out the other pump, and replaced it in the very same way.
For the install of the new tank in the floor of course was a whole new can of worms. The rough in was pretty standard and was done in no time, 12" below the floor. The new tank was roughly 4' tall with a lid and knock outs for the plumbing both the discharge and the vent. These pits are normally vented so that the smelliness is not overpowering. Because of the water table being so high, I hit water at around 16" and it was going to be hard to dig out 4' deep. It took a lot but the hole was made and the tank was ready to be installed, but being sealed to would almost be like a big boat. I decided to weigh it down slowly but surely. I got it into position and used one of the knock outs to where the outlet from the new bathroom was to be piped. I had a garden hose to slowly fill the tank up with the pump installed in the bottom. As water filled the tank, it started to sink into the hole, I lined up the new discharge and installed it to discharge in the tank. The new sewage ejector was installed to the bottom of the tank and when it was fully submerged into the ground, I began to pipe it to the septic line. The outside of the tank was packed with ?" crushed stone and the concrete above was patched to keep the tank from rising. I also had to set the float pretty high up to keep enough liquid inside the tank to keep it from floating up. I finished installing the pump and vent, tested everything out again to verify it was running properly.

When it comes to repairs or the install of a new sump be sure that you have the correct pump for the job. Having a water sump pump for a sewage pit is very ineffective and on the other side having a sewage ejector for clear water is kind of a waste of money. Power and discharge are the two main things to keep in mind for a new installation.